Table of Contents

1. Introduction
2. Leather Footwear Manufacturing Process
   • Raw Material Selection
   • Leather Processing and Inspection
   • Product Design and Development
   • Pattern Making
   • Leather Cutting Department
   • Closing/Stitching Department
3. Production Process

3.1  Lasting Process
3.2  Sole Preparation
3.3 Sole Attachment
3.4 Finishing Department
3.5 Quality Control and Testing
3.6 Packing and Shipment

4. Flow Chart of Leather Shoe Manufacturing
5. Leather Industry in Bangladesh and its future challenge

5.1 Current Situation
5.2 Barriers of leather industry in Bangladesh
5.3 Major Challenge & export decreasing
5.4 Environmental Issues
5.5 Mismanagement of relocation
5.6 Global market position
5.5 Feeble initiative
5.6Compliance and Certification

6. Recommendations
7. Conclusion
8. References

A Comprehensive Study of Leather Footwear Manufacturing: From Raw Material Selection to Finished Product –

A Case Study of Youngone  Shoe manufacturing

 

 

Introduction

The footwear industry is one of the most important manufacturing sectors in the world. Bangladesh has emerged as a significant producer and exporter of footwear due to its skilled workforce, competitive production costs, and growing industrial infrastructure. Among the leading foreign-invested companies operating in Banglades YOUNGONE Corporation, a South Korean multinational manufacturer with extensive operations in Chattogram EPZ. Youngone produces footwear, bags, sportswear, and outdoor equipment for internationally renowned brands. The company established its footwear manufacturing operations in Bangladesh in the mid-1990s and has become one of the country’s major export-oriented manufacturers. is a South Korean multinational company founded in 1974. It specializes in manufacturing outdoor apparel, footwear, bags, and sports equipment. The company operates manufacturing facilities in several countries, including Bangladesh, Vietnam, India, Ethiopia, and El Salvador. Youngone’s operations in Bangladesh include garment, footwear, textile, and accessories manufacturing facilities. The company established a shoe factory in Chattogram in 1996 and currently manufactures footwear, backpacks, and sports products for international brands.

 Leather Footwear Manufacturing Process

2.1 Raw Material Selection

The manufacturing of high-quality leather footwear begins with the careful selection of raw materials. The primary raw material is leather, which is usually obtained from cattle. The quality of leather directly affects the durability, appearance, comfort, and performance of the final product.

 

Other important materials include:

• Leather upper materials
• Lining materials
• Insole board
• Midsole materials
• Rubber or PU outsole
• Toe puff and counter
• Adhesives and chemicals
• Threads and laces
• Packaging materials

Before production, all materials undergo strict quality inspection to ensure compliance with international standards.

 

2.2 Leather Processing and Inspection

Leather processing and inspection are very important in the leather industry because they ensure the production of high-quality leather products. Proper leather processing improves the strength, durability, softness, and appearance of leather. Inspection helps identify defects such as holes, scars, stains, scratches, and uneven color before the leather is used in manufacturing. It also ensures that the leather meets customer requirements and quality standards. Effective processing and inspection reduce waste, increase customer satisfaction, and enhance the overall value of the finished leather products.:

1. Surface Quality

• Scars
• Cuts
• Holes
• Scratches
• Brand marks
• Insect bites
• Wrinkles

2. Color Inspection

• Uniform color throughout the leather
• No shade variation
• No stains or spots

3. Thickness Check

• Consistent thickness across the hide
• Meets customer specifications

4. Softness and Feel

• Proper softness
• Smooth hand feel
• Flexibility according to product requirements

5. Strength Test

• Tensile strength
• Tear strength
• Grain crack resistance

6. Moisture Content

• Correct moisture level
• Not too dry or too wet

7. Grain Quality

• Smooth and clean grain surface
• No loose grain
• No grain damage

8. Finishing Quality

• Even coating
• Proper gloss level
• No peeling or cracking

9. Measurement and Yield

• Correct area (sq. ft. or sq. m.)
• Maximum usable area

10. Customer Specification Compliance

• Color
• Thickness
• Softness
• Finish type
• Physical properties

 

2.3 Product Design and Development

The Research and Development (R&D) department creates footwear designs according to buyer requirements and market trends. Modern footwear manufacturers use Computer-Aided Design (CAD) software to develop accurate shoe patterns and prototypes.

 

 

The design process includes:

1. Concept development
2. Sketch preparation
3. Pattern engineering
4. Prototype creation
5. Sample approval
6. Production authorization

 

Youngone manufactures sports shoes, casual shoes, safety shoes, military boots, and outdoor footwear for global brands through OEM production. Product design and development of shoes is the process of creating new footwear that meets customer needs, fashion trends, comfort requirements, and quality standards. The process begins with market research to identify consumer preferences and current trends. Designers then prepare sketches and select suitable materials, colors, and components. After the design stage, patterns are developed and prototypes are produced for testing. The shoes are evaluated for comfort, durability, fit, and appearance, and necessary improvements are made. Once the design is finalized, the product moves to mass production. Effective shoe design and development help manufacturers produce attractive, comfortable, and high-quality footwear that satisfies customers and remains competitive in the market.

2.4 Pattern Making

Pattern making is the process of creating templates for the different parts of a shoe, such as the vamp, quarter, tongue, lining, and other components. These templates are used to cut materials accurately before assembling the shoe.

Steps in Shoe Pattern Making

1. Select the Shoe Last – The last determines the shape and size of the shoe.
2. Cover the Last with Tape – Adhesive tape is applied to the last to create a working surface.
3. Draw the Design – Style lines and component boundaries are marked on the taped last.
4. Develop the Patterns – The taped design is removed, flattened, and transferred to paper.
5. Add Allowances – Stitching and folding allowances are added where necessary.
6. Prepare Cutting Patterns – Final patterns are used to cut leather, fabric, or other materials.

Main Parts of a Shoe Upper

• Vamp
• Quarter
• Tongue
• Counter
• Lining
• Toe Puff

.Patterns are developed manually or digitally and then graded into different sizes.

 

2.5 Leather Cutting Department

The Leather Cutting Department is one of the most important sections in shoe manufacturing. Its main function is to cut leather accurately according to the pattern specifications. Proper cutting ensures the correct shape, size, and quality of shoe components. Skilled cutters select the best areas of leather and avoid defects such as scars, wrinkles, and holes, which helps maintain product quality. Efficient cutting also reduces material wastage and lowers production costs. Since the quality of the final shoe largely depends on the accuracy of the cut components, the Leather Cutting Department plays a vital role in ensuring product quality, production efficiency, and customer satisfaction.

The cutting process involves:

• Leather spreading
• Defect identification
• Die cutting
• Clicker press cutting
• Component sorting

 

Accurate cutting minimizes material waste and improves production efficiency.

 

2.6 Closing or Stitching Department

The Closing or Stitching Department is responsible for assembling and stitching the upper parts of a shoe before lasting and sole attachment.

 

Main Functions:

1. Stitching Shoe Components
   • Joins the vamp, quarter, tongue, lining, and other upper parts according to the pattern.
2. Attaching Reinforcements
   • Fixes toe puffs, counters, and other reinforcing materials to improve shape and durability.
3. Edge Folding and Binding
   • Folds and stitches edges for a neat appearance and increased strength.
4. Decorative Stitching
   • Adds decorative seams, logos, and design elements to enhance the shoe’s appearance.
5. Quality Inspection
   • Checks stitching quality, alignment, seam strength, and overall workmanship.
6. Preparing the Upper for Lasting
   • Ensures the completed upper is ready for the lasting department, where it will be shaped over the last.

The cut leather pieces are stitched together to form the shoe upper.

Operations include:

• Skiving
• Folding
• Stitching
• Reinforcement
• Eyelet attachment
• Logo application

3.1 Lasting Process

The lasting process is a crucial stage in shoe manufacturing where the upper part of the shoe is pulled, stretched, and shaped over a shoe last (a foot-shaped mold). During this process, the upper is attached to the insole to create the final shape and fit of the shoe. Lasting ensures proper shoe appearance, comfort, size accuracy, and durability. Different types of lasting methods, such as toe lasting, side lasting, and heel lasting, may be used depending on the shoe design. A well-executed lasting process helps produce high-quality shoes with an attractive shape and comfortable fit for the wearer. The lasting process includes:

• Toe lasting
• Side lasting
• Heel lasting
• Heat setting

The stitched upper is stretched over the last and secured to achieve the desired shoe shape.

3.2 Sole Preparation

The outsole and midsole are prepared separately.
Common outsole materials:

• Rubber
• Polyurethane (PU)
• EVA
• TPU

The sole surface is roughened and treated to improve adhesive bonding.

3.3 Sole Attachment

Sole Attachment Process in Shoe Manufacturing

The sole attachment process is the stage where the shoe upper (already lasted) is permanently joined with the outsole. It is one of the most critical operations because it determines the shoe’s durability, comfort, and appearance.

Steps of Sole Attachment

1. Surface Preparation
   • Roughing or buffing the bottom of the upper and the sole.
   • Cleaning dust, oil, and contaminants.
   • Applying primer if required.
2. Adhesive Application
   • Suitable adhesive (usually PU or neoprene cement) is applied to both the upper and sole surfaces.
   • Adhesive is allowed to dry for a specified time.
3. Heat Activation
   • The adhesive-coated surfaces pass through a heat activator or heat tunnel.
   • Heat reactivates the adhesive and improves bonding strength.
4. Attaching the Sole
   • The outsole is carefully aligned with the lasted upper.
   • Correct positioning is essential to avoid uneven appearance or bonding defects.
5. Pressing
   • The shoe is placed in a sole attaching press (hydraulic or pneumatic).
   • Pressure is applied to ensure full contact between the upper and sole.
6. Cooling and Curing
   • The bonded shoe is cooled and allowed to cure.
   • This develops maximum adhesive strength.
7. Inspection
   • Check for gaps, loose bonding, sole alignment, excess glue, and overall appearance.
   • Peel tests may be performed to verify bond strength.

Importance of Sole Attachment

• Ensures strong bonding between upper and sole.
• Increases shoe durability and service life.
• Prevents sole separation during use.
• Maintains proper shape and appearance of the shoe.

3.04 Finishing Department

The Finishing Department is the last stage of shoe manufacturing. Its functions include cleaning, polishing, quality inspection, fitting laces and accessories, correcting shoe shape, pairing shoes, packing, and preparing products for shipment. This department ensures that finished shoes meet quality standards and are ready for customers.

Activities include:

• Cleaning
• Edge trimming
• Polishing
• Waxing
• Lace insertion
• Final shaping

This stage enhances the visual appearance and market value of the footwear.

3.05 Quality Control and Testing

The Quality Control (QC) and Testing Department ensures that shoes meet the required quality standards before they are shipped to customers. This department checks materials, monitors production quality, and performs various tests on finished shoes.

 

Main Functions

1. Raw Material Inspection
   • Check leather, fabric, sole, adhesives, and accessories for defects.
2. In-Process Quality Control
   • Inspect cutting, stitching, lasting, and sole attachment operations.
   • Ensure production follows specifications and standards.
3. Finished Product Inspection
   • Check appearance, color, size, stitching quality, and overall workmanship.
4. Physical Testing
   • Sole adhesion test
   • Flexing test
   • Abrasion resistance test
   • Tensile strength test
   • Water resistance test
5. Measurement Verification
   • Confirm shoe dimensions, fitting, and sizing accuracy.
6. Defect Identification and Correction
   • Detect defects and recommend corrective actions.
7. Documentation and Reporting
   • Maintain quality records and prepare inspection reports.

3.06 Packing and Shipment

Approved footwear is packed according to buyer requirements.

Packaging activities include:

• Shoe stuffing
• Tissue wrapping
• Box packing
• Carton packing
• Barcode labeling
• Container loading

The finished products are then exported to international markets.

 

Shipment Process

The Shipment Process is the final stage of shoe manufacturing where finished products are prepared and delivered to customers or buyers according to shipping requirements.

Steps of Shipment Process

 

1. Customs Clearance
   • Complete customs and export formalities.
2. Transportation
   • Ship goods by sea, air, road, or rail according to buyer requirements.
3. Delivery to Customer
   • Products are delivered to the importer, distributor, retailer, or final customer.
4. Shipment Tracking
   • Monitor the shipment until it reaches its destination.

 

04.  Flow Chart of Leather Shoe Manufacturing

Raw Leather Collection
↓
Leather Inspection
↓
Design & Development
↓
Pattern Making
↓
Leather Cutting
↓
Skiving & Preparation
↓
Stitching / Closing
↓
Lasting
↓
Sole Preparation
↓
Sole Attachment
↓
Finishing
↓
Quality Inspection
↓
Packing
↓
Export Shipment

 

5. Leather industry in Bangladesh and future challenge of the sector

Current situation

Bangladesh has no shortage of advantages in the leather sector, including the availability of raw hides, skilled labor in leather processing, low production costs, and a favorable geographic location. However, these advantages have not been effectively utilized to establish a competitive position in the international market. Following the relocation of the tannery industry from Hazaribagh to Savar, processing facilities were not managed properly, resulting in declining exports. The sector has also failed to emerge as a significant value-added industry.

Barriers of leather industry in Bangladesh

Several barriers remain to transforming the tannery industry into a green and sustainable sector. Even after relocation, many tanneries continue to face financing constraints. One major opportunity lies in ensuring proper utilization of government stimulus funds and Green Transformation Funds. However, the leather industry often struggles to access such financing because it is categorized as a “red-listed” industry by the Department of Environment. In reality, there is no rule prohibiting financing for red-listed industries. Rather, green finance is commonly used worldwide to help highly polluting industries transition toward environmentally sustainable operations.

.

Major challenge 

The leather industry is facing multiple challenges. The Central Effluent Treatment Plant (CETP) in the Savar Tannery Industrial Estate is still not operating at internationally accepted standards. Moreover, most tanneries have not obtained Leather Working Group (LWG) certification, preventing them from securing direct orders from major global brands. This raises an important question: why has the sector reached such a state despite the involvement of numerous government agencies, development partners, projects, NGOs, and research organizations?

 

Export Decreasing scenario

According to some entrepreneurs, despite numerous initiatives, the sector has not improved and has instead deteriorated. Leather exports, which once ranged between USD 300–400 million, have reportedly fallen to around USD 100–150 million. Exporters argue that poor management has left many firms financially distressed. One entrepreneur noted that approximately 44.25 percent of loans in the sector are classified as defaulted, creating a significant obstacle to new financing. A major contributing factor was the inadequate preparation for relocating industries from Hazaribagh to Hemayetpur. The CETP, designed to treat liquid waste, was not constructed according to the original plan. Although the Bangladesh Small and Cottage Industries Corporation (BSCIC) claimed that all infrastructure was ready, many stakeholders dispute this assertion.

Government policy problem

Furthermore, numerous by-product processing enterprises were not relocated from Hazaribagh. Since the transportation of chromium-containing solid waste outside the tannery estate is prohibited, many of these industries gradually ceased operations, causing substantial losses for entrepreneurs. According to the Tannery Owners’ Association, 162 industries were relocated, of which only 142 remain operational. Some businesses have reportedly violated agreements by leasing out their allocated plots. Accurate data on this issue are lacking, highlighting the need for a comprehensive survey. Without reliable information, efforts by the Ministry of Industries to restore order in the sector may prove ineffective.

 

Environment issue

A recent survey conducted by the Implementation Monitoring and Evaluation Division (IMED) found that while relocating the tanneries reduced pollution in Dhaka to some extent, pollution levels in the Dhaleshwari River near Savar have increased. Another study conducted by ICDDR,B revealed that the CETP in Savar is handling far more waste than its designed capacity. Chemical concentrations exceed acceptable levels, impairing the plant’s effectiveness and resulting in untreated or inadequately treated effluent being discharged into nearby waterways. A further survey by the Department of Environment in March of this year also found alarmingly high pollution levels. Entrepreneurs and workers participating in these studies acknowledged that the primary objective of the relocation—environmental improvement—has yet to be achieved, creating a major obstacle to leather exports and value-added production.

Mismanagement of relocation

The relocation project was initially approved in 2003. Subsequent revisions significantly increased its cost, and the relocation was finally completed in 2017. Authorities had promised that all operational requirements would be ready upon relocation, but reality proved otherwise. Because the CETP was not functioning properly, individual Effluent Treatment Plants (ETPs) were later permitted. By then, however, many firms had already become loan defaulters. In addition, companies with small plot allocations lacked sufficient space to build new facilities, while larger firms with plots ranging from 5,000 square feet to over 100,000 square feet were better positioned to expand and adapt.

Global market  position

The leather sector has been subjected to continuous experimentation and policy adjustments, yet meaningful solutions remain elusive. New problems have emerged alongside existing ones. During the fiscal year 2025–26, India exported leather, leather products, and footwear worth approximately USD 4.76 billion, while Vietnam’s exports reached nearly USD 29 billion. Although Bangladesh has access to a market valued at roughly USD 3 billion, it ranks only 27th globally. Despite producing high-quality full-grain leather, Bangladesh has not established itself among the world’s leading leather manufacturers. Key reasons include the limited number of internationally certified firms, inconsistencies in finished leather quality, weak environmental compliance, limited branding, and inadequate international market presence.

Orthodox compliance

Today, compliance has become a critical requirement in global trade, demanding substantial investment. Many large leather goods manufacturers operating in Bangladesh’s Export Processing Zones (EPZs) require high-quality finished leather but import it due to local supply limitations. Producing export-quality finished leather requires advanced processes such as coating, polishing, embossing, and glazing, all of which involve significant investment and compliance costs. Consequently, Bangladesh has been unable to fully capture the higher value associated with premium finished leather products.

Feeble initiative

Every year during Eid-ul-Adha, extensive discussions take place regarding the management of raw hides. Large quantities of hides are damaged due to delays in collection and transportation. During the Eid season, millions of hides are collected within one or two days. However, inadequate collection centers and limited transportation capacity delay delivery to tanneries, increasing the risk of spoilage. Many hides remain in open fields or collection centers, while others are stored for long periods due to insufficient processing capacity. Although free salt distribution was introduced this year, tannery collection and processing capacity, as well as cold storage and preservation infrastructure, have not been significantly expanded. Some observers also believe that a portion of the surplus hides is illegally smuggled across the border, though no reliable statistics exist to confirm this claim.

Recommendation

For the CETP to function effectively, greater attention must be paid to pre-treatment processes within individual tanneries. The original CETP design itself was flawed. Many tanneries fail to operate their own pre-treatment facilities effectively, allowing excessive amounts of chromium, sulfides, fats, solid waste, and other chemicals to enter the CETP. This disrupts the entire treatment process. Installing mechanical bar screens for preliminary treatment is particularly important. There are conflicting views on this issue. Entrepreneurs claim that most tanneries have already installed easily maintainable bar screens, but an independent survey is needed to verify the situation.

Those firms that have already invested in compliance measures and are close to obtaining Leather Working Group (LWG) certification should receive adequate support to complete the certification process. This would enable them to export higher value-added products and generate greater foreign exchange earnings.

.

 

Conclusion

Leather footwear manufacturing is a complex process involving multiple stages, from raw material selection to final shipment. Each department plays a crucial role in ensuring product quality, durability, comfort, and aesthetic appeal. Finally, a policy framework is needed to integrate tanneries with leather goods manufacturing as a connected industrial value chain. By maintaining environmentally sustainable production and processing standards, Bangladesh can increase value addition and save foreign exchange. To restore the leather sector’s past success, the government must take proactive measures, and all stakeholders associated with the industry must work together toward sustainable development and global competitiveness. Companies such as Youngone Corporation have established advanced footwear manufacturing facilities in Bangladesh and produce a wide range of sports, casual, outdoor, safety, and military footwear for global brands. Through modern technology, skilled labor, strict quality control, and efficient production systems. Though the company have been working for 30 years in Bangladesh, still we cannot learn how to prepare raw material or finish goods as well.

 

  ————- o ————

 

                                                           

 

 

 

 

Reference Books & Journal Articles

 

1. Bangladesh’s Leather Industry — Joseph Strasser

 (Journal Articles)

• Leather Industry in Bangladesh: Opportunities and Challenges — Wahiduzzaman Khan, American Journal of Trade and Policy, 2014
• Leather Industry in Bangladesh: A Systematic Literature Review — Khan, Hossin & Akbor, Asian Business Review, 2015
• Bangladeshi Leather Industry: An Overview of Recent Sustainable Developments — Hiralal Paul et al., Journal of Society of Leather Technologists and Chemists, 2013।
• The Leather Value Chain in Bangladesh – Results of a Qualitative Analysis — Joseph Strasser
• Footwear Industry (Banglapedia)
• Developing the Leather Industry in Bangladesh — Asian Development Bank (ADB), 2018
• Business Opportunity Scan: Leather Sector Bangladesh — Netherlands Enterprise Agency, 2017
• Bangladesh’s Leather Industry — Borkot Ali Mollik, SSRN,